Today’s article is about some dos and don’ts when it comes to the craftsmanship side of cosplay competitions. This is not referring to skits but to having your costume judged for quality and craftsmanship.

To people who take the time to compete in various masquerades or other live competitions, cosplay really can be ‘seriuz biznis’. For a lot of seamstresses, it means putting in long hours pouring over references, patterning, sewing and crafting. When you put that much time, effort, and money into a project, it really does become serious.

Every competition has its own rules, so it’s very important to read over those before entering. Also, rules can vary from category to category, so make sure you are reading the information for your appropriate skill level.

There are some universal rules of thumb to keep in mind. While they are pretty straight forward, you’d be surprised at the amount of people who try and slide things by, just to try and win an award. Skeevy, yes, but they do it anyway.

First and foremost – if you did not make the costume yourself, do not enter it into the competition. I see this one broken left and right, and it drives me insane. I don’t care if your Mom, your Dad, your sister, your brother, your uncle, your aunt or your BFF helps you – if they gave you anything more than advice, if they sewed on your project, if they crafted items for your project, if you did not do 100% of the manual labor – do not enter that particular project into the competition. To be blunt, it’s really douche if you do. The whole point of entering a competition is to showcase your work, not someone elses – and if anyone worked on it but you, it’s no longer solely your work.

Now, if you and a friend are entering as a group and helped each another, that’s fine. As a matter of fact, if the competition allows it, I encourage that. Crafting items with friends is a lot of fun, and then you and your group can show off your hard work at the competition. Just make sure to enter at the level of the most capable person in your group. (Meaning, if you have two beginners and an intermediate, everyone should enter as intermediate.)

And, please, do not enter commissioned items in a cosplay competition. If you think claiming your Mom or sister’s work as your own is douchey, claiming a commissioned costume as your own qualifies you as a total douche-canoe. Seriously. And, as a side note, this also includes wigs and props. Don’t pass off someone else’s work as your own, no matter what part of the costume it is.

When you enter a competition, make sure to enter at your appropriate skill level. If you are willing to cheat just to get an award, you really should reevaluate your priorities. If you’re new at cosplay or have tried competing a couple of times and haven’t won an award, by all means, stick to beginner. However, if you’ve ever won an award before, then you need to suck it up and move to intermediate. The whole point of competing is to learn and grow in your craft, not be a jerk.

Next, when you go to get judged, bring reference pictures and progress pictures of you making the costume. Reference pictures help the judges see how accurately you made the costume; progress pictures help them see the journey you made from pile of fabric to completed costume and generally tend to win you bonus points. The more you bring of each, the better off you are. The most professional of cosplayers will bring a whole portfolio so that they can go over bullet points with the judges and show them how they did various things. The point is to impress the judges with your skills and knowledge. (Oh, and before you even walk in the door, do a once-over on your costume to make sure you don’t have any loose threads and that everything is where it needs to be.)

If you are given feedback by the judges at any point, listen to them. A lot of times, the people who are judging are cosplayers like yourself and they may have a trick or two to teach you. They aren’t insulting you. They aren’t putting you down. They are trying to help.

Some competitions allow modified street clothes, and that’s fine. Check to see the ruling on it. However, once you get past a certain level (usually journeyman but definitely in masters), it’s really tres gauche to use modified street clothes in competition. If you are entering in masters, you should be able to make pretty much anything off the rack yourself, anyway. Save it for hall cosplay.

And finally, be a good competitor. If you lose, lose graciously. Everyone has heard the “but the judges were biased” story – and sometimes it’s true. Some judges don’t know anything about seamwork or quality, but most of them do. Just chalk it up as a learning experience and move on. On the same note, if you win, win gracefully. While no one likes a sore loser, everyone hates a gloating winner. Thank the judges, be proud of your accomplishments, and leave it at that.

If you play your cards right, you can have a great time and meet some really fun and interesting people whom you already have something in common with!

I’m happy to report that our post, “Photography and the Plus Sized Cosplayer” has garnered a lot of positive support in the community. With all the negativity you can see posted online, it is like a breath of fresh air to see that there are people – lots of people – who love this hobby and feel that anyone can, and should, cosplay.

One of the articles I found through a reblog by Cosplay in America had some great tips for photographers AND cosplayers alike.

Please read this great article by Dragonslave on Tumblr.

I’ve been hemming and hawing about writing a piece on this for a while, and I wasn’t sure how to do it without getting bawws of ‘jealous fattie’. Finally, I have decided to just write it, because honestly, just because I am overweight, doesn’t make my point of view any less valid.

I’ve seen a number of cosplayers talk about the trend photography is taking in cosplay. And I’m talking about women who are in good shape and are attractive. It seems that cosplayers, particularly women, have to wear skimpy and over the top costumes to get anyone to take their picture. Men have an even harder time. They have to either have light up costumes, complete armor costumes, or be super buff, tan, and sleek.

But if you are plus-sized? Forget about it. You’ve got virtually no chance in Hell.

I’ve been cosplaying since 2001. I’ve always been a large girl, though my size has varied throughout the years. However, I have always had a hard time getting my picture taken unless I either pay for it, I’m part of a large group, or it is someone I know. I’m willing to say that part of it has to do with the characters I choose. I cosplay what I love and not what’s popular. However, I’ve done some fairly elaborate costumes through the years, and with one notable exception, I have always been overlooked.

For whatever reason, getting my picture taken has always been hard for me. Unfortunately, as the years have gone on it’s gotten worse. I’ve even been asked to step out of pictures on numerous occasions – even when I’m obviously paired with my wife. I remember wearing Utena and Steph was wearing Anthy at Nan Desu Kan 2005, and a photographer asked for Steph’s picture. She insisted that I was in it with her, and the photographer made sure to cut me out of the frame. (He was stupid and showed Steph the picture afterward.) Or another instance when I was wearing Prince Endymion to Steph’s Princess Sailormoon. Someone asked for her picture, and Steph asked if they wanted “her Endymion” as well. The person looked at me, frowned, and said, “No.”

It has actually happend enough that Steph will now refuse to allow a photographer to take her picture if we’re a matched set and they won’t take mine with her. It’s a pretty huge kick in the teeth, I have to tell you.

And I realize why this is. It’s an esthetics thing. No matter how well made my costume is, most people don’t care. All they see is a fat person wearing a costume. I also realize that some photographers are just hacks; they don’t make art, they take pictures of hot chicks (and, even more rarely, hot guys) and post them to get their name out there. And I also realize there are a phenomenal amount of cosplays out there, and that it is impossible for any one photographer to get pictures of them all. (Though some of them still try, bless their hearts!) However, people who know their craft, people who are trying to do more than take “hot body” pictures are getting more and more rare.

I also think that there are very few photographers who even know how to take a good picture of something, be it large cosplayer, bowl of fruit, or a “day in the life” photo. Having a pretty subject – like a hot guy, gorgeous girl, lovely rose, or brand new car – does not make you a good photographer. Having a top of the line camera does not make you a good photographer. Knowing how to frame a photo, what lighting to use, and take the best angle picture of your subject makes you a good photographer.

I’d like to challenge photographers out there. There are a number of incredibly talented plus-sized cosplayers out there. I know any one of them would love to help you level up your picture taking; to show that you can do more than take mediocre pictures of pretty things.

Ask us. Work with us. You might be surprised with the result.

Lots of costumes have bows on them, and making sure they are the right shape and size is important to the overall look of the costume. That means knowing how to measure the bows appropriately and pattern them in the shape that best suits the costume.

As always, Sailor Moon is my fallback reference of choice, so we’ll show you how to measure bows for a standard Bishoujo Senshi Sailor Moon costume.

First, find reference pictures of your front bows. With the BSSM senshi, bows not only vary from anime to manga, PGSM to Sera Myu, but also from season to season. For example, their original bows vary from their SuperS season bows. So collect your pictures and get ready to measure. (Note: as always, it’s better to have someone measure you, rather than measuring yourself. It’s very hard to measure yourself accurately; I don’t recommend it.)

Let’s start with the front bow first.

As you can see, depending on the bow, the measurement will vary, so you’ll have to adjust for that. Typically, you want to measure across the bust:

For smaller bows (like the first season anime bows), for the width of the bow you’ll want to do outside nipple to outside nipple, and add an inch for seam allowance. (This will vary from seamstress to seamstress. I don’t like having a big seam allowance, so I usually only do 1/2 inch.) For larger bows (like Myu bows), you’ll actually measure armpit to armpit. Round up to the next highest number if it’s a fraction.

To measure the height of the bow, look at your reference again. For anime bows, you generally want to measure from the top of the bust (where your bra starts) to the center of your bust; again, add an inch for seam allowance. Manga bows generally cover the whole bust, while Myu bows actually start at the collar bone and end at the center of your bust. Again, round up to the next highest number if its a fraction.

Once you have your main bow measurement, you can calculate for the tails. The height will remain unchanged; you’ll want to add 3 inches to your original width measurement. That will give you an extra inch and a half to each side.

Have I lost you yet? No? Good. Now for the back bow.

As you can see, the back bows vary quite a bit as well. Typically, the width is fairly consistant, it’s the height and the tails that change. However, always use your reference pictures as a guide.

To measure the width on the average back bow, you want to measure your hips at the widest point, then add 3 inches (1 for seam allowance, and 2 to give it a little extra dimension.) Myu bows actually get measured differently. Clasp your hands in front of you and have someone measure you from behind, elbow to elbow. Weird, yes, but it works.

The standard height I recommend for the main bow is from the small of your back to the center of your bum. Myu bows get measured from about the start of your arm pit to the top of your bum. (Gotta love Myu. Everything is HUGE.) Remember, when you attach the bow, it will rest around the small of your back, so don’t freak out. We’re going for proportion right now. Location matters later.

Next up, your trailers:

If you have trailers like your front bow, you just do some simple mathematics. This time, add 4 inches to your width. (It’s going on your butt. You need to compensate.) However, if you have dangling trailers, then you’ll need to measure again.

First, measure from the small of your back to half way to your knee. That’s the length of *one* trailer. Also remember that dangling trailers tend to be more narrow, so you don’t want them nearly as wide. Five inches plus seam allowance is actually a good size for the width of most trailers.

So there you are. You now have your basic measurements to create your bows. If you know how to make bows, then you are all set! If not, our next tutorial will be how to make nice, crisp bows, so stay tuned!

On a previous post, I’d mentioned that there had been a positive movement in plus-sized cosplay and that I am really happy to see this happening. It’s refreshing to see that people are starting to appreciate the cosplays of hard-working seamstresses and cosplayers, regardless of their size. I’m sure there will aways be people with the “fatties shouldn’t cosplay” attitude; after all, this is a hobby based on aethetics and not everyone believes that large people can be beautiful, too. However, it’s a start, and I am really happy to see the trend gaining momentum.

However, having subscribed to several plus-sized forums, I see some problems brewing. While I really do believe that cosplay is about having fun and cosplaying the characters you love, I really think people should take body type into consideration when they pick their characters. Unless a miracle happens, I will never, ever cosplay Lum – and that’s a good thing. I’m losing weight and getting healthy, but even when I am no longer obese, I simply do not have the body type for that kind of costume.

Now, that’s not to say you can’t cosplay your favorite characters – but consider the costume and ask yourself some hard, honest questions. The first one should always be, “Will I be comforable in this?” followed closely by “Will this look flattering on me?”. If either answer is no, perhaps look for an alternate version of your character’s costume. A lot of times, they have more than one piece of clothing in their arsenal.

Tayloring is very important in cosplay, and that goes for everyone – thin, average, or obese. Most of what you see in manga and anime couldn’t (or shouldn’t) exist in the real world as “real” clothing, so it’s up to you to translate those 2D images into a 3D rendition that works for you. For women (or crossplay as women), darts in the chest area help a lot. If a portion of the body should be bare, consider making shirts longer to cover tummies or even using flesh-colored spandex to cover problem areas to give a smooth, even finish. If your arms are a problem area, then taylor your sleeves appropriately. Maybe consider making them a little less snug or even a little longer if they are super short sleeves. The same thing goes for skirts. If your skirt should end just under your rear, consider adding an inch or two for modesty – and wear spankies underneath.

Studying existing fasion standards can help a lot when it comes to creating costumes. Are you average-shaped? Pear-shaped? Apple? Then modify the costume to your body type. If you have a thick torso, avoid horizontal stripes. If you have short neck, avoid turtleneck or high-necked collars. Instead. opt for something with a scoop neck. Short torso? Try elongating the bodice area of your costume. Short skirts make the legs look longer. It’s all about optics and making the visuals work for you.

Also, fabric selection is really important. I’ve heard it said that spandex is a privilege, not a right… and I have to agree. However, there are alternatives. For our myu fuku, we use something Joanns calls “jet set interlock”, and then we interface it and then line it. It helps keep things smooth and even, but still has a bit of give to it. (I can’t say enough about interfacing, as it gives things a more professional look.) Flowy fabrics work well to hide problem areas if gathered correctly. If possible, avoid shiny fabrics in problem areas, especially if it’s going to be tight-fitting. Solid colors and matte finish on fabrics will draw less attention to your problem areas, so keep that in mind.

And finally, I cannot stress enough the importance of bodyshapers and corsets. They range from lightweight to heavy-duty, and everyone can use them. My tiny wife actually has a very nice foam bodyshaper she wears under certain costumes simply to keep things smooth. I have a variety of tummy cinchers, tights, and corsets that help me keep bulging to a minimum. We’ve got a few costumes planned for the future that I’m building corsets into. I’ve found a way to incorporate it into the design of the costume.

If you plan your costume to your body type, not only will you feel more comfortable, but you’ll look absolutely amazing.

I’m happy to say that there has been a positive movement as of recently in regards to plus-sized cosplayers. There are several new media pages, from blogs to Facebook pages, that have popped up over the past few months, and it’s garnered a fairly positive response. Men and women of all sizes are starting to get positive encouragement in what has traditionally been a very biased hobby.

It’s really nice to see this. Without getting into the history of it, heavier cosplayers have always gotten the shaft. To most people, big just doesn’t equal beautiful, no matter how much time and effort people put into costumes and into their appearance. As a “fattie” (gotta love that term), I’ve been luckier than most. I’ve met some great people and had some seriously wonderful experiences. However, just like anyone who is fat, I’ve also had to deal with my own share of jerks along the way.

Now, don’t get me wrong. I’ve seen some cosplays from obese people that are down right horrid. They pick the wrong fabrics, so it wrinkles and looks bad. They don’t tailor the costume to their frame, so it makes them look frumpy and even larger than they are. Or they don’t bother with their appearance, they just throw on a wig without brushing it and toss on some tennis shoes and call it good. However, I’ve seen the same mistakes on petite and average size people, and yet they don’t seem to get the slack that the plus-sized cosplayer gets.

Conversely, I’ve seen some absolutely stunning plus-sized cosplay out there. Men and women who take time to analyze a costume, break it down, and taylor it to their frame. They pick great fabrics, and spend a ton of time crafting an absolute masterpiece. Their seamwork is impeccable. They spend a great deal of time doing their wigs, their make up and making sure their overall appearance is spectacular.

…and up until recently – 99% of their work would go totally unnoticed. Photographers don’t take pictures of them. Other costumers ignore them except to laugh. Judges write them off in contests.

But that is changing. The word is out; big can be beautiful. I’m really glad that us fatties are starting to get recognition for our hard work. Our work is just as valid as any other costumers; we just tend to use more fabric. 😀